There are many men out there who make a valiant effort to elevate the bar when it comes to men’s style…and the general perception of our lack of it. Despite these best efforts—either from genius designers, celebs or everyday men about town—there are still many walking among us who are just fine with keeping that bar at the bargain basement level.
To quote the angry old man from The Network, “I’m mad as hell, and I’m not going to take it anymore!”
Admittedly, this may be considered not the most thoughtful of blog entries because its focus is the superficiality of style. This entry, however, is not only about dressing stylishly. It also covers what men need to do to develop a personal sense of style, as well as hold fast to some simple rules that will help our brethren look a little less ridiculous, if not entirely stylish. And style does speak to a deeper sense of self, I think. Either way, like my blog title suggests, if you leave the gun (the harsh rhetoric) and take the cannoli (the wisdom), you will get something out of this.
Though I generally keep to my own business, I can’t help but notice others when they’re roaming the streets along side me on the daily basis—people, especially men, who seem to fall a bit short when it comes to combining style and substance. It seems that they’re either confused, trying too hard to amass a designer’s entire catalogue, or altogether indifferent about their appearance. And men have committed some of these faux paws for so long, they now have become commonplace—which really pisses me off. More to the point, there are some errors of style that are committed simply because they are not aware of the common sense that exists within style.
Here’s a perfect example: Whenever possible, my wife and I like to sneak in a dinner-and-a-movie date. Of course, this sort of event does not mean what it used to in the area of entertainment and fine dining, but it does give some an opportunity to step out in something other than sneakers and t-shirts. Apparently, there are scores of women who feel the same way. The next time you go to a movie theater, look at a few couples and compare their chosen attires for the evening. I’m certain you’ll notice a lady who has donned her favorite pair of dressy jeans, a nice blouse and a good pair of pumps. The guy on whose arm she is draped, on the other hand, is likely to be dressed in his worst pair of jeans, a pair of sneakers that look like they spend more time in the garage than in the house, and a tasteless (and probably stained) graphic tee. If he swaps the tee for a casual button-front shirt, he takes his ensemble up a notch (and there was no place he could go but up). In terms of ethnicity and age, some may have their opinions on who may be the most likely of culprits, but I have seen men of all ages and races exercise the same errors in judgment.
Now I’m not a shallow dude, but I’ve always known that no one is interested in uncovering a gift if it’s wrapped in trash. Well, that may be a bit harsh, but you get the idea. I’m a firm believer that vanity managed in small, harmless doses can be a good thing. It’s why we bathe with scented soaps, comb our hair, brush our teeth until the breath is pepperminty fresh and roll on some “deo” each morning. When it comes to hygiene, we care about our presentation to the rest of the world—at least, most of us. To me, taking care in what you wear is no different. Plus, I actually think that— like reading a book in public—style of dress is indeed another social tool that folks use to communicate who they are. Now, one can try to argue the point that having no interest in superficiality can imply that the person isn’t shallow, or encumbered by such social trappings. Yawn! In many cases, laziness is the reason. And I happen to think that a person who cares about the details can be just as deep, and appear far more interesting on the surface to boot.
I’ll put on the chopping block now that all who read this blog may not agree with some of the “rules” I’ve outlined. Indeed, a couple of points are more of a personal feeling rather than a widely established convention brought down from on high by the couture gods. Whether you agree or disagree, it should make for an interesting confab. Ladies, if you are secretly harboring a style scofflaw, this blog entry may help you to steer him in the right direction...and help you keep your head up the next time you and your beau head to the movies. So, in honor of Fashion Week in NYC, here we go:
1. Avoid looking like something out of Frankenstein’s closet. Style comes from the inside out. You have to be comfortable in your own skin before you think about what sort of wardrobe you want to build. It’s okay to get some ideas from a fashion mag, from some celebrity on the red carpet or from a really decked out mannequin in a store window. Current great works of art are often inspired by great works of the past. Personal styling is no different. However, when you go to translate that image to fit your style, you must consider your reality (size and shape, colors, cuts, etc.) There is usually a version of what you saw out there that will provide the right fit for you. Don’t buy the first thing you see if it doesn’t hold up when you rock it. Shop a bit harder. Look to different stores, both the high-end and the obscure, and take to the Web. Usually, with a little work, you might find the right piece at a price you can swallow. Don’t be afraid to really shop, as opposed to just buying up stuff. Don’t rule out having something made by a professional tailor at a boutique clothier. Sure, it may cost a bit more, but the fit will be worth it.
Also, be a bit more critical, even of the top names in the game. Some stuff is just not for everyone. If you are a big, burly dude who requires a XXL or better to feel really comfortable, don’t buy the Ralph Lauren polo shirt with the two-foot polo player logo on the front. Opt for a kinder, gentler option, please. Loud stuff on a big body becomes louder, no exceptions.
2. Price tags are no longer an excuse. A universal truth is that good men’s clothing can be expensive. Even when on sale, the sale price can still be a bit shocking. We rarely experience the degree of great deals that our female counterparts do, but they’re out there. So, if you start with a high-end idea, try to match it with a dogged, price-conscious approach to making it happen. Going to the mall and hitting the top shops are a good start, but you may meet prices that would stamp out your gusto. There is hope, men. You just have to be willing to look for it a bit harder. Don’t just stop at the mall. Look for every possible outlet, like clothing outlet centers, men’s fashion warehouses and stores that offer access to the same brands, but not the high department store prices (TJ MAXX, Marshalls, and Daffy’s come to mind). Need a great pair of shoes? Give DSW Shoes a try. Here’s a hint: It’s all about location. Usually, the stores located in affluent areas will have a greater selection of high-end fair.
I will say that, at times, the high-price of quality may not be easily avoided. It’s okay to splurge on some things. Usually, high-end men’s clothing is worth the investment because the quality construction will hold up over time.
3. Suits and track sneakers? It’s gotta stop! Don’t wear sneakers with a suit unless you’re making a specific fashion statement. If you’re rocking a nice two-piece with a dusty pair of New Balance sneakers, you’re saying loud and clear that you skimp on your footwear. Men, I know we tend to abandon this rule in favor of a more comfortable commute, but it looks ridiculous. There are great, durable shoes out there that will complete your look and won’t leave your dogs barking, if you have to sprint for that evening train home. Example: Cole Haan is one of my favorite designers, as they make some spiffy leather shoes for men. Some of which include Nike Air technology in the sole, which adds considerable comfort to match the cool factor. It’s an investment, but they are durable shoes that look good the longer you wear them…with a polish here and there, of course.
4. Unless you’re running late for first period, lose the backpack, man. Professional men wearing sneaks and backpacks with suits (or even slacks) just really make me angry. Either they look like a geek-gone-wild, or an overdressed high school kid. Either buy a lighter laptop, or invest in the type of messenger bag or briefcase that can handle the bulk. Hint: if you’re no longer concerned with transporting cheap shoes while you brave the commute in dusty New Balance sneakers (see Rule# 2), you may find that you don’t need a large backpack to accommodate your stuff.
5. Don’t fear pleats. Pleats are not the problem, cheap pleats are.I wear flat-front slacks a lot. Love ‘em. When it comes to picking a nice pair of slacks or a suit, however, I don’t fear pleats at all. Aside from the fact that I like a classic look (and, in a pinch, being able to actually use my pants pockets), I’ve learned that fearing the crotch-area bulk of which pleated pants are often guilty can be quelled with a sharper eye for quality fair. Some of the more brilliantly meticulous designers have managed to include pleats without parachuting the crotch. If you always opt for cheap pants (not inexpensive, there is a difference), you will always worry about form. If you start to become a bit more meticulous yourself, you can find some great pleated slacks and suits that will produce a classic look and a proper fit. Don’t get me wrong, a flat-front suit can be cool too, as they are usually purchased as suit separates and can be used in the same way. They do add versatility to your wardrobe. Next time, though, give pleated suits a second look with that more vigilant eye and see your options expand.
6. Sloppy is not a style. It’s an adjective. Sloppy casual clothes. Sloppy business suit. Sloppy guy. You get the idea. Regardless of your style, or range of styles, you should always buy clothes that fit. Clothes that are too big or too small do not accomplish what you set out to accomplish when you purchased them. If you buy clothes to accommodate some recent weight gain, know that you may be able to alter the size down when you get things back under control. All you need is a good tailor (and I highly suggest you establish a nice rapport with one the next chance you get). And don’t wear clothes that constrict you to the point that your eyes are popping out of your head. This mistake can send multiple mixed messages, including that you think the rest of us are either blind or stupid. If it no longer fits, you must ditch. Or, at the very least, stick those items in the back of the closet until you’ve made it back to the gym.
7. Invest in dress shirts. You might find that you need not invest in a dozen suits if your shirts and accessories provide varied looks. A sense of style, or that developing vigilant eye, becomes critical when you are shopping for shirts. In many cases, you will not have the suits with you when you stumble onto some shirts you like. So the work may come before you hit the stores. Pick up some men’s style mags and thumb through them on the train, or whenever you can steal a quiet moment (wink, wink!). I happen to thumb through Esquire, but go to what grabs you first. (I’m sure you’ll land on Esquire eventually.) In addition to general style rules, you will see some great examples of pairing suits with shirts, ties and other accessories. In most cases, the price tags in the mags may be too steep for you to copy the page. However, if you remember rule# 1, your goal is not to copy anyone. Your goal is to be inspired to expand your own style portfolio.
8. Accessorizing: it’s not just for women anymore: Accessorizing can be hard, especially if you are not meticulous about your wardrobe. Now is the time to start exercising that part of your brain. Belts. Ties. Pocket squares. Wallets. They all matter, and they all play a part in helping you pull off a great look. A great tie can make a bold statement. However, if you choose to go tieless, a nice pocket square tucked in the breast pocket can be just as bold. Cheap belts wear fast, and you’ll spend more money replacing belts than you would have spent on a well-made belt. Having belts of different colors (to match shoes) and sizes (jeans and chinos vs. dress pants) is not a luxury—it is a necessity. A high-end wallet should last many years, but you still may need more than one. A bulky wallet for everyday use may prove a bit cumbersome when you choose to rock flat-front plants, or have to switch to a suit or garment that provides little in terms of hidden pockets. A small wallet can help you to be comfortable while keeping your essentials concealed and accessible.
9. Flip-flops!! Okay, this rule is more of a rant on a personal issue I have with flip-fops as part of everyday attire. Of course, I know there are stylish flip-fops out there, but anyone who knows me knows my general feeling on flip-flops:
Yuk!
It all started years ago when women hustling through the morning streets of New York would wear flip-flops in the summer, instead of their commuter shoes. Initially, it did not seem like a bad thing. But, factor in sweaty feet and the general grime that accumulates when sashaying through densely populated, polluted urban environments, and you have a funky situation that even Bootsy Collins would not want to be a part of! I would actually see the grime on the feet of female colleagues and other women as they made their way into the elevator. Being that close to them, I felt dirty.
But, that’s not my biggest issue. My biggest issue came when men started wearing them as part of an ensemble. I could not put my finger on it but, a couple of weeks ago, it hit me. I was scouring for some summer shirts and undergarments at a local Marshalls store, when I heard the polite pitter-patter of flip-flop rubber hitting foot heel. As the sound graduated behind me I turned around, fully expecting to see a female approaching. Instead, it was a dude standing at about 6’ 3”. Then I realized that, to me, the sound of flip-flops hitting feet, somehow, is a distinctive feminine sound—like the sound of a portable hair dryer, or a slow-jam ringtone.
This could be a residual effect from my Summer Flop of Horrors in NYC, but I digress. When a man wears flip-flops, it throws off my equilibrium and sense of awareness about my environment. Plus, there is just something about sticking that plastic bar between my toes that I can’t seem to get past. Now, I will admit that flip-flops are growing on me, in terms of their style possibilities. But, I only consider them in environments that include words like cruise, yacht, catamaran, beach, or poolside. Still, if you have crossed over to the dark side, I’d advise getting a bit more serious about it…and opt out of the pairs of complimentary pedicure flip-flops. Consider sturdier stuff, like flip-flops that provide stronger straps (leather, or hefty canvas) and some traction, support and elevation underneath. And since I’ve expressed that, after ten years, I can somewhat see the light, do me a solid and think about some less floppy alternatives, like lightweight sneakers and canvas shoes. Some of your favorite sneaker manufacturers will bless you each season with some styles suitable for the hot summers days. And funky manufacturers (like Crocs. Thanks, Dev!) will furnish an array of sturdy rubber and canvas footwear that can get you from the pool to the airport and through security in a blink.
10. What lies beneath we need not see. This is a faux paw, straight up. If you are wearing a light-colored shirt (whether it be cotton, linen or poly-blend), never, ever wear a white undershirt or tank top underneath. The white tee shows through the shirt, draws the eye to the mistake and away from the rest of the ensemble. Oh, and that goes double for light-colored pants! This seems like common sense, but you would be surprised at how often this rule is broken. I find that this faux paw is most obvious on men with darker skin but, from what I’ve observed, it’s pretty universal. To my Caucasian bothers, I’m sorry that I don’t have a clear recommend here. If someone out there knows how to handle this specifically for quite-light-skinned folks, please post it. For folks in my complexion range, I know that wearing dark underwear (black or dark gray) solves this pretty easily. There are times when this rule can be ignored or seem like less of an issue, like when you’re wearing a light-textured summer shirt and are purposely exposing your undershirt in a stylish way. In my opinion, this is the only time to burn this rule.
11. Young men: you have some work to do. We all like to stay on what’s current, or “hot”—even those of us who are very, very north of twenty-one. However, even at that age, I had a couple of pairs of slacks, a suit or two, and some shoes that would help me get properly attired for a specific event or situation. In the past couple of years, I’ve been to a number of weddings and (sadly) funerals, and there are always a handful of young men who think that rocking black Timberland boots, dark jeans and a polo shirt is appropriate for these environments. Not a good look, my dudes! You can make some pretty inexpensive investments to expand your wardrobe a bit. In some cases, you can invest in multiple articles of clothing that would run up a tab close to one crisp pair of Timbs—especially if you follow some of the suggestions above. Don’t get me wrong, I love Timbs and sneakers, but every occasion they do not fit. Start making small, purposeful investments in some key items and, before you know it, you will have a wardrobe that would make you (and your lady) proud.